Many people have heard about the vitamin C rave, but is it just a hype or does it actually work? Is it the same if I just eat vitamin c?

Studies show that vitamin C protects against aging, skin cancer, and hyperpigmentation. Topical administration is necessary because even high doses taken orally leaves an insufficient amount in the skin.

Vitamin C prevents sun-induced wrinkles and skin cancer

Vitamin C is one of the most powerful antioxidants, but what does that really mean? UV radiation causes free radicles that damage the skin, causing wrinkles. Vitamin C helps prevent this oxidative process, including of the p53 gene. Since sunscreen is only partially effective at blocking these reactive oxygen species, it is important to use vitamin C in the morning to prevent sun damage wrinkles, which are irreversible by botox. 5–10% vitamin C topical application on double-blind placebo controlled studies of 30 patients showed significant wrinkle and sun damage reduction. Sunburns also reduced by 52% when 10% vitamin C is applied to the skin. When used in conjunction with Vitamin E, the antioxidant protection factor increased 4-fold.

Vitamin C as an anti-aging compound

Also a powerful anti-aging compound, Vitamin C increases collagen synthesis, stabilizes collagen fibers, and decrease collagen degradation. It also increases gene expression of collagen. 3% vitamin C applied daily over 4 months showed increased density of dermal papillae.

Vitamin C treats hyperpigmentation

Vitamin C is also an anti-pigmentation agent. It works by inhibiting melanin production. A study showed significant hyperpigmentation improvements after using 25% vitamin C for 16 weeks on 40 patients with a hyper pigmented skin condition known as melasma.

What Vitamin C products work?

You should choose a product with Vitamin C concentrations of 10–20% and pH below 3.5, which can be attained by adding ferric acids. This is because L-ascorbic acid, the most common form of vitamin C is unstable and has poor penetration in the skin at neutral pH.

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References

Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.

Hwang, S. W., Oh, D. J., Lee, D., Kim, J. W., & Park, S. W. (2009). Clinical efficacy of 25% L-ascorbic acid (C’ensil) in the treatment of melasma. Journal of cutaneous medicine and surgery, 13(2), 74–81. https://doi.org/10.2310/7750.2008.07092

Lin, J. Y., Selim, M. A., Shea, C. R., Grichnik, J. M., Omar, M. M., Monteiro-Riviere, N. A., & Pinnell, S. R. (2003). UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 48(6), 866–874. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2003.425